Rhum J.M. Vieux Millesime 2002 10 Year Old

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May 112016
 
Rhum J.M. Vieux Millesime 2002 10 Year Old

A wonderfully sippable AOC agricole from J.M. in Martinique The unquantifiable quality of the J.M. 1995 Très Vieux 15 Year Old has stayed with me ever since I first tried it. Some aspects of the rhum did not entirely succeed, but I could never entirely rid my memory of its overall worth, and so deliberately sought out others from the stable of the company to see if the experience was a unique one. And I am happy to report that the Millesime 2002 10 year old is a sterling product in its own way, and perhaps slightly exceeds the 1995…though [Click here for the full review…]


Compagnie des Indes 1998 Guadeloupe 16 Year Old Rum – Review

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May 082016
 
Compagnie des Indes 1998 Guadeloupe 16 Year Old Rum - Review

A lovely, light rum , as elegant as a Viennese waltz: it’s missing something at the back end, but nothing that would make me consider telling anyone to steer clear. Compagnie des Indes so intrigued me when I first came across their Cuban rum back in early 2015, that I’ve already looked at two of their more offbeat products (from Fiji and Indonesia), and have detailed notes on five more commercially minded ones, which I’ll try to deal with in the next weeks and months (in between every other rum I want to write about). This one hails from Guadeloupe [Click here for the full review…]


Mana’o Jus de Canne Rhum Blanc – Review

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May 042016
 
Mana'o Jus de Canne Rhum Blanc - Review

Cool stoicism and subdued power, all in one rhum. Standard “table” white rums have always been around, and perhaps appeal more to those mix them into gentle cocktails and go on to play Doom II on “Please Don’t Hurt Me” difficulty. In the main, the best known ones were — and are — filtered, light mixing agents which made to adhere to a philosophy best described as “We aim not to piss you off.” They excite a “ho-hum” rather than a “wtf?” Not so the current crop of clear, unaged rums which have been making an increasing splash in our [Click here for the full review…]


GDL El Dorado Bonded Reserve Rum – Review

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Apr 282016
 
GDL El Dorado Bonded Reserve Rum - Review

A rum from Ago. Perhaps only a Guyanese or a retired British Navy man could truly love it. For the most part, over the last months I’ve concentrated on fairly well known rums, made by bottlers with whom we’re all reasonably familiar. Today, I’m going to reach into the past a bit, to the Guyana Distillers El Dorado Bonded Reserve. Sorry, what? I can hear you say, You mean DDL don’t you, Mr. Caner? Yeah…and no. This rum was made in the early 1980s before DDL changed its name, and in it was one of those hooches like the King [Click here for the full review…]


Banks DIH XM Royal Gold 10 Year Old – Review

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Apr 252016
 
Banks DIH XM Royal Gold 10 Year Old - Review

For me this is a rum that evokes real nostalgia, even though I’ve mostly moved past it. I enjoy storytelling, but if rambling background notes and local anecdotes are not your thing, skip three paragraphs. It was a fact of life in Guyana in the 1980s and 1990s that as one moved up the income scale from poor to less poor, one upgraded from Lighthouse matches to bic lighters to zippos; from leaky, loosely packed Bristol cigarettes to Benson & Hedges (gold pack, preferably made in the UK, not Barbados), and stopped swilling the pestilential King of Diamonds (which nowadays [Click here for the full review…]


Velier Enmore (Versailles Still) 1988 19 Year Old Rum – Review

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Apr 222016
 
Velier Enmore (Versailles Still) 1988 19 Year Old Rum - Review

It is a rum of enormous taste and great breadth of profile…and if it had been a little less serious, a little more forceful, I would have called mine Falstaff. In spite of its light blonde colour, there has always been something dark and dour, almost Heathcliff-ish, about the Enmore rums, including this 1988 variation (maybe it’s the bottle design of black-on-dark-red). It’s a brilliantly done piece of work, a drone-quality delivery system for ensuring your taste buds get every bit of nuance that can be squeezed out. And that, let me tell you, is quite a bit. So many people [Click here for the full review…]


St. Nicholas Abbey White Rum – Review

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Apr 132016
 
St. Nicholas Abbey White Rum - Review

A tasty, unaged, pot-still white rum, which St. Nicholas Abbey seems to have made while in a playfully experimental phase. So there I was last week, reading through my notes and writing unenthusiastically about the 3 year old “Real McCoy” white rum from Barbados, which found little favour with me. But consider this unaged counterpart made right up the road from St. Nicholas Abbey, also issued at 40%, also a white and in just about every way a superior product. What could account for such a difference? Well, part of it is the lack of filtration, another is the source [Click here for the full review…]


Rhum Barbancourt Réserve Spéciale (1970s)

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Apr 102016
 
Rhum Barbancourt Réserve Spéciale (1970s)

Rumaniacs Review 021 | 0421 Here’s a pretty decent, if somewhat anorexic, rhum from Haiti, courtesy of the House of Barbancourt. The name “Réserve Spéciale” is still in use, and refers these days to an eight year old, but so scarce is any kind of information on the sample I was provided (even getting a photo was problematic hence the lousy quality of the one you see here), that for me to say it was an eight year old back then is an educated guess, not a fact. Still, info or no info, a sample was sent, and there it is and [Click here for the full review…]


The Real McCoy 3 Year Old White Rum – Review

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Apr 092016
 
The Real McCoy 3 Year Old White Rum - Review

Bartenders and cocktail enthusiasts will get more out of this than I ever will. It redefines the word “understated.” Knowing how I have never been entirely satisfied with rums from Barbados, I decided to buy a few about which many have waxed rhapsodic, followed that up with trying as many as I could at the 2015 Berlin rumfest, and continued on the theme by begging my friends in Europe for samples of their personal stocks of independent bottlers’ Bajans. Let’s see if I can’t get to the bottom of why — with just a few exceptions — they don’t titillate [Click here for the full review…]


Rhum Rhum Libération 2012 Vieux Agricole “Integrale” – Review

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Mar 302016
 
Rhum Rhum Libération 2012 Vieux Agricole “Integrale” - Review

One of the best five year old rhums ever made, and a showcase for the wonderful directions the profile of a rhum can take. If I was underwhelmed by the “standard” 45% 2012 Liberation, and shrugged at the 2010 version (both rated around low eighties scores), let me assure you that the 2012 “Integrale”, bottled at a mouth watering 59.8%, is a beast of an entirely different colour. If your sojourn into agricoles ever takes you to Guadeloupe rhums, you could do a lot worse than stop a while at the small southern island of Marie Galante, where Bielle and [Click here for the full review…]


Neisson Rhum Agricole Vieux Tatanka “Le Coupeur” – Review

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Mar 242016
 
Neisson Rhum Agricole Vieux Tatanka "Le Coupeur" - Review

A youngish agricole with slightly loopy tastes that makes one intrigued enough to take another sip….and another two or three after that. Cheap tinfoil cap aside, this may truly be one of the most original and striking bottle labels I’ve ever seen. Painted right on, colourful, bright, lovely, and if I was still scoring such things, it would be tempting to add an extra point or two just to show how much it appeals. The bottle shape was the same as the Extra Vieux I wrote about some months back, but man, the design was as jazzed up as the [Click here for the full review…]


Rum Nation Demerara 1990 25 Year Old Rum – Review

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Mar 222016
 
Rum Nation Demerara 1990 25 Year Old Rum - Review

* The yin to Velier’s yang approaches its own pit stop on the road to the end of the Age of Demeraras, with a worthy entry to the genre. Because I have a thing for Demerara rums (and not just because I used to live in the neighborhood), I’m always interested in finding new ones…or old ones issued anew, take your pick. The RN 1990 is a sad sort of milestone for the company, because it is one of the last of the deeply aged Demeraras the company will issue for some time, nearly depleting its stock of PM distillate [Click here for the full review…]


Rum Nation Peruano 8 Year Old Rum – Review

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Mar 162016
 
Rum Nation Peruano 8 Year Old Rum - Review

More tamed Peruvian sunshine. It’s been quite a few months since I picked up a Rum Nation product to write about. This is not to say that they have either lapsed in sleep or are resting on the laurels of past achievements, since just the other day they put out some promo materials for two new Guadeloupe rums I’m going to keep an eye out for. However, today I wanted to look at one of their other countries’ offerings, the Peruano 8 year old. Aficionados are no strangers to rums from that country: both the Millonario XO and Millonario 15 soleras [Click here for the full review…]


Appleton Estate “Extra” Jamaican Rum (1980s)

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Mar 152016
 
Appleton Estate "Extra" Jamaican Rum (1980s)

*** Rumaniacs Review 020 | 0420 The tinfoil cap and chubby, callypigian bottle (trust me, that’s a word worth knowing), give this away as a rum made within living memory, even if some of us weren’t drinking back then (or drinking much). The “Extra” evolved into the modern 12 year old…alas I didn’t have any on hand at the time I tried this ‘Maniacs sample so I couldn’t do a comparison, though some of my friends think it’s as good or better. It ain’ no quattie, I could tell you that. Colour – dark amber (darker than the current 12 year [Click here for the full review…]


Cadenhead Green Label Demerara Rum 1975 33 Year Old – Review

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Mar 132016
 
Cadenhead Green Label Demerara Rum 1975 33 Year Old - Review

It’s instructive to drink the Norse Cask and the Cadenhead in tandem. The two are so similar except in one key respect, that depending on where one’s preferences lie, either one could be a favourite Demerara for life. The online commentary on last week’s Norse Cask 1975 32 year old rum showed that there was and remains enormous interest for very old Guyanese rums, with some enthusiasts avidly collecting similar vintages and comparing them for super-detailed analyses on the tiniest variations (or so the story-teller in me supposes). For the benefit of those laser-focused ladies and gentlemen, therefore, consider this [Click here for the full review…]


Norse Cask Collection Demerara 1975 32 Year Old Rum – Review

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Mar 082016
 
Norse Cask Collection Demerara 1975 32 Year Old Rum - Review

Sometimes amazing rums come into being, made by people you’ve never heard of, blindsiding you with creative genius. Here’s one from Denmark. Often, writing about a rum that is good with flashes of great leaves me with the vague feeling of dissatisfaction, because it seems that with a little more effort and imagination and maybe even chutzpah, it could have scored higher, been more, wowed my socks off. How often have I written “excellent work, but…”? The Danish made Norsk Cask, which I bought together with Henrik of Rumcorner, was a rum that neatly sidestepped those concerns and has proved [Click here for the full review…]


E.H. Keeling & Son Old Demera Rum (1950s)

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Mar 032016
 
E.H. Keeling & Son Old Demera Rum (1950s)

Rumaniacs Review 019 | 0419 So this is a rum from British Guiana in pre-Independence days, distilled for E.H. Keeling & Son in London. These days such rums are not strictly unicorns, because that would suppose we know something about them – here, their makers have long since been forgotten, the bottles drained, the labels faded, and they were not made for a discerning audience. Yet the rums still turn up here and there like old-fashioned, tarnished gems in your late Grandmother’s Edwardian jewellry box, whose story and origin have been lost because no-one ever thought to remember. Sad really. Perhaps here we [Click here for the full review…]


Samaroli Barbados 1986 (WIRR) 20 Year Old Rum – Review

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Mar 012016
 
Samaroli Barbados 1986 (WIRR) 20 Year Old Rum - Review

A Barbadian rum you’re unlikely to either forget, or get much more of, in the years to come. It’s among the most original rums from Barbados I’ve ever tried, even if it doesn’t quite come up to snuff taken as a whole. I wish I could find more Samarolis from the early days. There aren’t enough from that maker in the world, and like most craft bottlers, their wares go up in price with every passing year. I was lucky enough to buy this remarkable Bajan rum online, and for a twenty year old rum from one of the non-standard [Click here for the full review…]


Samaroli Demerara 1994 12 Year Old Dark Rum – Review

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Feb 262016
 
Samaroli Demerara 1994 12 Year Old Dark Rum - Review

A very well blended, original melange of traditional Demerara flavours that comes up to the bar without effort, but doesn’t jump over. It is a curious matter that although Samaroli may well be the first independent bottler to dabble in the issuing of year-specific, country-specific craft rums (they began with whiskies back in 1968), somehow they never seem to quite get the respect or street cred that its inheritors like Velier, RN, CDI and others do. Few of their rums grace the review pages of the blogosphere, and yet, those that show up have all gotten pretty positive words said [Click here for the full review…]


Rhum St. Gilles (1960s/1970s)

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Feb 152016
 
Rhum St. Gilles (1960s/1970s)

Rumaniacs Review 018 | 0418 This is a tough rhum to track down, so there’s not much I can tell you aside from noting that the brand no longer exists…I don’t even know when they went belly up. If my searches are any good, an ex-Carmelite priest called Reverend St. Gilles opened the small plantation in the 17th century (the company itself published a book about him in 1948). In their time prior to the 1980s, La Compagnie du Rhum Saint Gilles exported several varieties of rhum from Martinique to France and Italy, for distributors like Stock and Raphael. My sample was neither [Click here for the full review…]


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