Three More Cachaças from Delicana

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Jul 252016
 
Three More Cachaças from Delicana

#290 In 2014 I looked at three very different aged cachaças from Delicana, the German maker of Brazilian rums; I had met the owner, Bert Ostermann, who has had a love affair with the country lasting many years at the Berlin Rumfest and we had a long and pleasant conversation.  The central theme of his work was to age his rums in local woods, which gave them a piquant, off-base profile that at the time I didn’t care for – indeed, I scored the youngest of these rums the best, because I felt that the peculiar tastes of the wood had not had [Click here for the full review…]


Jamel Cachaça – Review

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Jul 252016
 
Jamel Cachaça - Review

Original enough to make it worth buying just to experience it.  Nose is startling, taste a lot better. (#289 / 81/100) *** In trying the Jamel, Leblon and Sagatiba cachaças together this one stood out quite markedly, even more so when ranked against the German company Delicana’s three local-wood-aged variants that I’ve also tried.  The L’Esprit Brazilian rum might have set the bar high and remains the one I prefer the most (so far) but if you stick with it, this one is pretty damned good too…and this is one of those times that if they did add something in, [Click here for the full review…]


Sagatiba Pura Cachaça – Review

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Jul 222016
 
Sagatiba Pura Cachaça - Review

Great nose. Taste and finish don’t quite measure up. This was a cachaça I bought back in 2011 or thereabouts, and never bothered to open and review because I had zero experience with the spirit beyond getting smacked on caipirinhas a few times; I lacked sufficient background to rate it properly and it seemed to be unfair to score it when there were no fitting comparators.  Several years on, nearly three hundred reviews and quite a few Brazilian spirits later, plus available comparators and controls, and I felt better equipped to write something I can put my name behind.   [Click here for the full review…]


Leblon Cachaça – Review

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Jul 202016
 
Leblon Cachaça - Review

The Rio Olympics will surely revive interest in cachaças. Let’s head into the Amazon for a few reviews, starting with this delicate but ultimately disappointing one from Leblon. Cachaças, the rhums of Brazil, remain among the most unrepresented rums in the world, both from a perspective of being written about in reviews or info-blogs, or of actual knowledge of their incredible variety outside their place of origin.  And yet supposedly some 1500 or so such rums exist (one writer says it’s 5000), far eclipsing the other cane juice minority of the agricoles, which get much more attention. Amazingly, a mere [Click here for the full review…]


Lost Spirits Polynesian Inspired Rum – Review

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Jul 172016
 
Lost Spirits Polynesian Inspired Rum - Review

Nope, this one doesn’t quite click either.  Too many clashing tastes, none enhancing any other, and overall, too untamed. Still not entirely a bad product though. Let’s just wrap up the third on in the initial rums made by Lost Spirits, the Polynesian-inspired.  For those who really are not into rums, have not been paying attention, or are wondering why this small company is gathering so much press, be it known that Bryan Davis out of California makes the claim that with his proprietary technology (a ‘molecular reactor’) he can not only emulate many years’ ageing in just a few [Click here for the full review…]


Richland Single Estate Georgia Rum – Review

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Jul 132016
 
Richland Single Estate Georgia Rum - Review

  * By itself with nothing else around, it’ll do just fine as a light and casual sipper. It chips along easy, dances pretty around your palate, and has delicate notes that are quite enjoyable. In conjunction with others, it kinda chokes. This review has been sitting, waiting, gathering dust, for many months now, and the bullet, so to speak, had to be bitten. If I had never tasted a raft of rums from around the world the day the Richland crossed my path, I might have liked it a lot more. But what did happen is that my friends [Click here for the full review…]


Neisson Rhum Agricole XO Cuvée du 3ème Millénaire – Review

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Jul 072016
 
Neisson Rhum Agricole XO Cuvée du 3ème Millénaire - Review

Trying the last of the four Neisson I bought in 2014-2015 made me happy I saved it for last, because it was, I felt, the best of them all. “The race does not always go the swift, nor the battle to the strong,” goes that old aphorism; to which some wag added “…but that’s the way to bet.” I feel the same way about older rhums versus younger ones – the best score doesn’t always go to the oldest (the Trois Rivieres 1975 and 1986 are proof of that), it’s just that more often than not that actually is the [Click here for the full review…]


Lost Spirits Cuban Inspired 151 Rum – Review

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Jul 032016
 
Lost Spirits Cuban Inspired 151 Rum - Review

Not quite there.  Yet. Lost Spirits, if you recall, is the company that produced a set of rums of varying strengths last year – polynesian, navy, colonial, and this one – which are processed by their proprietary “reactor” to emulate the taste profile of rums aged for many years, while only being days old.  This is one of the three I bought, the “Cuban Inspired” version, bottled at a growlingly powerful 75.5% and properly labelled “151”.  151s are generally mixers (unlike, say, the SMWS beefcakes), which strikes me as an odd choice to produce – because if one is trying [Click here for the full review…]


Compagnie des Indies Jamaica 2000 14 Year Old Rum – Review

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Jun 302016
 
Compagnie des Indies Jamaica 2000 14 Year Old Rum - Review

  A rum that’s frisk to a fault. Ever notice how many new Jamaicans are on the market these days?  At one point you’d be lucky to see a few Appleton V/Xs chatting boredly on the shelf with an occasional dusty Coruba, and if your shop was a good one, maybe an indie or two.  For over a decade, few knew better.  Now, it’s not just J. Wray stuff that one can find with some diligent trawling: one can’t go online without banging into rums from Hampden, Monymusk, Worthy Park, Clarendon, Longpond…which is all great. The rum resurgence is a [Click here for the full review…]


Saint James Rhum Vieux Agricole Millésime 1986

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Jun 232016
 
Saint James Rhum Vieux Agricole Millésime 1986

Rumaniacs Review 023 | 0423 Supposedly the 1970s and 1980s are the rarest vintages of many Martinique rhums – nearly thirty years later, that’s as little as makes no difference, since any and all rhums from that era are now collector’s items, irrespective of the country.  Many have been lost forever and aren’t even remembered.  This one from 1986 deserves to be rescued from the pit, however, because it’s pretty good. Saint James on the north east coast of Martinique has been around since 1765 when Father LeFebure of the Brothers of Charity first devised a cane spirit, which he [Click here for the full review…]


SMWS R3.5 Barbados 2002 11 Year Old Rum (“Marmite XO”) – Review

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Jun 222016
 
SMWS R3.5 Barbados 2002 11 Year Old Rum ("Marmite XO") - Review

A big ‘n’ badass Bajan rum, brutal enough to be banished to Netflix, where Jessica Jones and Daredevil occasionally stop by Luke Cage’s bar to have some. “They may be more throwaway efforts than serious exemplars of the blenders’ arcane arts,” I remarked once of one of the 151s with which I amused myself.  The SMWS on the other hand, does this overproof stuff with the dead seriousness of a committed jailbird in his break for freedom.  They have no time to muck around, and produce mean, torqued-up rum beefcakes, every time. So be warned, the “Marmite” isn’t a rum with [Click here for the full review…]


Kirk and Sweeney 12 Year Old Rum – Review

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Jun 192016
 
Kirk and Sweeney 12 Year Old Rum - Review

Not a bah-humbug rum…more like something of a “meh”. I have an opinion on larger issues raised by this rum and others like it, but for the moment let’s just concentrate on the review before further bloviating occurs. Kirk and Sweeney is a Dominican Republic originating rum distilled and aged in the DR by Bermudez (one of the three Big Bs of Barcelo, Bermudez and Brugal) before being shipped off to California for bottling by 35 Maple Street, the spirits division of The Other Guy (a wine company).  And what a bottle it is – an onion bulb design, short [Click here for the full review…]


Bristol Spirits Enmore 1988 20 Year Old Rum – Review

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Jun 152016
 
Bristol Spirits Enmore 1988 20 Year Old Rum - Review

A slightly discombobulated Enmore from the year Feynman died and Rihanna was born.  I wonder if that says anything about it? Bristol Spirits is a UK independent bottler formed in 1995, and so can no longer be considered a new kid on the block. Its label design has gone through several  iterations before settling on the current wildly coloured labels that so kidnap your eyes when you spot them on the shelf, and unlike some other indie bottlers, they pretty much issue all their rums at what they consider the appropriate strength, usually between 43%-55% with outliers at 40% in [Click here for the full review…]


Damoiseau Rhum Vieux Millésimé 1989 20 Year Old – Review

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Jun 122016
 
Damoiseau Rhum Vieux Millésimé 1989 20 Year Old - Review

The 1980 Damoiseau was no fluke, as this 1989 forcefully demonstrates. Last week I wrote about the Longueteau Grande Reserve which I tasted in tandem with this excellent Damoiseau (and five or six others), and wow, did this one ever stand out. At the risk of offending that actually rather pleasant and inoffensive Grande Reserve, I think the Damoiseau shows what it could have been with some egging on.  (Actually, this is what the Pyrat’s XO could have been had they ever found their cojones, lost the oranges and dialled the whole thing up to “12”, but never mind). Because [Click here for the full review…]


Longueteau Très Vieux Grande Réserve 2004 Rhum – Review

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Jun 072016
 
Longueteau Très Vieux Grande Réserve 2004 Rhum - Review

Strong beginning, fine development, chokes on the backstretch There are many things about agricoles that I slowly learned to appreciate: the clear profiles, the subtleties of their ageing, the differences and similarities with the molasses based rums that some almost indifferently dismiss as ‘industrials.’ So far I seem to be leaning more towards Guadeloupe rhums than those from Martinique, and while the Grande Reserve I sampled in Paris in April 2016 wasn’t one of the shining stars of the firmament, it wasn’t all that bad either and I had several hours to come to grips with it properly Longueteau distillery [Click here for the full review…]


Professor Cornelius Ampleforth Rumbullion – Review

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May 312016
 
Professor Cornelius Ampleforth Rumbullion - Review

Too much spice, too much sugar, too little interest. The name is almost Dickensian in its imagery.  Professor Cornelius Ampleforth could be straight out of the Pickwick Papers…you know, some chubby, benevolent older fellow in half-specs and a faded waistcoat, with rather limited mental capacity, down on his heels, but possessing a good heart. Whatever – the name evokes a certain good humour and indulgence from us, and at the very least is evocative.  That, unfortunately, doesn’t make the Professor’s Rumbullion a rum worth drinking, unless you are into spiced rums and like to have that in your drink (which [Click here for the full review…]


Navy Neaters 95.5º Proof (Guyana-Barbados Blended) Rum – Review

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May 252016
 
Navy Neaters 95.5º Proof (Guyana-Barbados Blended) Rum - Review

A blue-water rum for the Navy men of yore. This may be one of the best out-of-production independent bottlings from Ago that I’ve had.  It’s heavy but no too much, tasty without excess, and flavourful without too many offbeat notes.  That’s quite an achievement for a rum made in the 1970s, even more so when you understand that it’s actually a blend of Guyanese and Bajan rums, a marriage not always made in heaven. I’ve trawled around the various blogs and fora and articles looking for references to it, but about all I can find is that (a) Jolly Jack [Click here for the full review…]


Nine Leaves Angel’s Half Rum (French Oak Cask)(2015) – Review

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May 182016
 
Nine Leaves Angel's Half Rum (French Oak Cask)(2015) - Review

A love note to the concept of kaizen It’s an old joke of mine that Nine Leaves’ staff consists of  a master blender, office assistant, purchasing agent, bottler, General Manager, brand ambassador and sales office, and still only has one employee.  This was and remains Mr. Yoshiharu Takeuchi, who single-handedly runs his company in the Shiga Prefecture of Japan, and basically issues some very young rums (none are older than six months) on to the world market. The unaged whites in particular are getting all sorts of acclaim, and I have one to write about in the near future. Back [Click here for the full review…]


Ron Bacardi Superior “Carta de Oro” Añejo – 1970s

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May 162016
 
Ron Bacardi Superior "Carta de Oro" Añejo - 1970s

Rumaniacs Review 022 | 0422 On the surface, rums like this one remind one how long Bacardi has been around (as if we could forget);  the Superior has also had a long history – I found a photo dating back to the 1930s.  This one is of more recent vintage, the 1970s, and made in the Bahamas (and that’s where I’ll tag it).  Other versions of this rum were made in Trinidad and Cuba, some white, some not.  The labelling of “Carta de Oro” and “Añejo” and the colour, however, makes this a lightly aged product, less than five years [Click here for the full review…]


Neisson Rhum Agricole 2005 Vieux – Review

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May 152016
 
Neisson Rhum Agricole 2005 Vieux - Review

There are few (if any) weaknesses here: conversely, not many stellar individual components either.  It’s just an all-round solidly assembled product that missed being greater by a whisker. So here we are, gradually inching up the scale of the Neissons, with a rum I felt was slightly better than the Tatanka I looked at some weeks ago.  Now, that one had a bright, colourful label to catch the eye (Cyril from DuRhum did a review of the lineup, here), and yet appearance aside, this one was, in my estimation, a smidgen better. It’s a subtle kind of thing, having to [Click here for the full review…]


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